Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
